Spoiler alert: I LOVE this pattern! The True Bias Nikko Top is one of my favorite knit patterns to make. It’s one of the few patterns that I’ve made so many times that I know the directions by heart at this point. So far I’ve made 5 Nikko tops (check out my colorblocked version) and I’ve learned a few helpful lessons along the way.
Fabric
Fabric is the most important part of the success of a Nikko top in my experience – to be honest it’s probably the most important of any knit project! In the 5 Nikko tops that I’ve made, only 2 have held up over time. The 3 that have not lasted were also quite difficult to work with when sewing. I have found that a thick rib knit for this pattern gives great success for three reasons:
- A nice thick rib knit will be much easier to keep stable when sewing hems and around the curved neckline.
- The pattern is tight fitting – so you’ll want something thick enough to be opaque when stretched.
- In my experience, a rib knit will have a great memory over time. The fabric won’t start to look stretched after months of wear.
Pattern & sizing
This pattern is very straightforward and easy to follow. I have only made the top version, so I can’t speak to any complications with the dress. The directions are fairly clear and the illustrations are helpful to follow along with.
This pattern is very fitted, so if you like your clothes with a looser fit I would recommend sizing up. I personally chose to do true to size. I like to wear these tops as layering pieces under sweaters so it’s great to have them perfectly fitted. If your fabric is a lighter color or slightly sheer and you don’t want it to be too see-through, you may want to size up.
Making the True Bias Nikko Top
I am a big fan of the mockneck style and the first time I made this top I realized just how simple the construction is. I personally found it to be simpler than making a knit neck binding because you don’t have to worry about stretching the neckline fabric to fit.
For me, the most difficult pattern (and any knit pattern) is making sure that my hems don’t end up wavy. After many knit hem fails, I have 2 secret weapons that help me to avoid wavy hems on my knits:
- Steam iron my hems right after sewing them. This will usually take out most of the waves, especially if the fabric is not low quality and my stitches are fairly straight.
- Stitch witchery! This might be the easy way out – but I have found it to be such a dream. You can steam fuse it between your hem as your press your hem and prepare it to be sewn. Technically it fuses the fabric and you won’t need to sew it, but I always sew the hem anyways.
Modifications
I haven’t made any significant modifications to this top (yet). I vary the sleeve length between short sleeve and full length, but nothing major.
Final thoughts on the True Bias Nikko
The True Bias Nikko Top is an A+ make. This pattern was the second knit I tackled – the Grainline Lark was my first – and I think it will be a hit in my repertoire for year to come. The mockneck look doesn’t really go out of style and makes a great layering piece. If you’re thinking about making the top and need more inspiration, check out my Nikko Top Pinterest board. Good luck!
